Showroom Mexico at 22 D Howard Street is transformed with the broad brushstrokes of African bodypainting, inspired by the Ethiopian traditions of ‘donga’ ceremonial stick fighting for this SILENT by Damir Doma Temporary Boutique. The glass façade is decorated with hand-painted stripes, echoing the bold print that highlights the collection. Inside, the distinct silhouettes of the SILENT by Damir Doma spring/summer 2012 collection are presented in a series of large-format monochrome photographs by Sybille Walter – complementing a comprehensive selection of womenswear, menswear and accessories.
“WHEN STARTING A COLLECTION, I LOSE MYSELF IN AN IMAGINARY WORLD – AN ABSTRACT PLACE, A TANGENT UPON WHICH I LOSE SENSE OF WHY, WHEN AND WHERE. THERE IS NO PAST AND NO FUTURE; IT IS SOMETHING VERY TIMELESS. FOR THIS INSTALLATION I OFFER THE AUDIENCE MY INNER EYE, AN INVITATION INTO MY WORLD. THE SPACE HAS BEEN TRANSFORMED INTO A WHITE DESERT – A SPIRITUAL AND SILENT PLACE. AN ARID LANDSCAPE IS FUSED WITH THE PURITY OF BLINDING WHITE. TRAVELLERS ARE LOST IN THE SANDS, AS THEY BECOME THE SALT OF THE EARTH.” – DAMIR DOMA
The SILENT by Damir Doma collection for spring/summer 2012 draws a pure line through the sand – interpreting the clean, flowing lines of ethnic garments with intuitive closings and modern, geometric shapes. Tribal prints in the collection are inspired by the rough gestures of African body painting, in abstracted monochrome waves and leaf-like patterns. Jersey and crepe textiles in natural fibers are comfortable and soft to touch – for light, informal layering in the warmer months.
Both mens and womens pieces are cut with the loose structures of a martial arts uniform, accented with topstitching as an understated, decorative element. One jersey jacket extends down from the hood with topstitched belts tied at the waist, while another wraps like a large shawl around the neck. Sweatpants and long shorts are layered with dramatic waist pleats, or cut in angular panels. For knitwear, boxy sweaters are accented with contrasting heavy-rib inserts, and cardigans are cinched with a new D-ring belt. Other key details across the collection include a dropped shoulder silhouette, and uneven hems (falling long in the front).
Tees and tanks are treated with raw edges and athletic shapes, distinctly highlighted in the season’s vivid cadmium green, aubergine and tonal shades of denim blues. In addition to seasonal colourways, the signature tones of pale grey (silent), dark grey (ashes) & black remain in the collection.