June 26th 2015
Dutch denim store Tenue de Nîmes have once more engaged in a promising collaboration. This time around, they teamed up with British denim professor William Krol at Tender Co with whom they created 12 hand-numbered jeans. Their material of choice is a duck canvas fabric, similar to that used in classic work wear garments. Rather than using a standard yarn-dyed fabric these jeans were cut from piece-dyed cloth (the woven fabric is dyed whole). While twill-weaves are traditionally measured in ounces (eg 16oz denim), plain-woven canvas duck weight is measured in ‘numbers’ and ‘naughts’. The canvas used for this dozen pairs of jeans is a No4 Duck, which is equivalent to around 15oz, traditionally used for sea bags or tarpaulins.
Piece-dyeing heavy canvas like this is usually done over rollers in a large vat, using a carefully controlled automated process, but the canvas for these Tender x Tenue de Nimes jeans has been scrunched into a small vat, causing it to crease up in the dye which leaves marks and streaks on the cloth. It means that each pair of jeans is subtly unique.
The final color of these jeans is reminiscent of a standard beige duck fabric, but the shade is warmer and richer- in fact its color is similar to that of flowerpot. Hence the fabric name: flowerpot duck.The jeans are cut and put together in England, on the Tender type130 block, with a tapered leg and articulated yoke for a well-fitting seat. They are sewn throughout with contrasting ecru cotton thread, which shows in the details. Inspired by classic Wrangler jeans they have a felled out-seam and copper dome rivets; the hip pockets are fully lined with English-woven ecru calico, and the front pocket mouths are cut on the bias to stretch into curves over time. The jeans are finished with a ‘snob’s thumb’ pocket at the front right waistband. Based on the waist pocket on a pair of C18th silk velvet court breeches, the curved facing is constructed to sit above the belt, making it easy to access. As with all Tender’s jeans, the waistband button is lost-wax cast solid brass.
Every pair of the Tender type 130TDNXX is accompanied by a signed letter from the designer and is presented in a riveted English calico ‘pillow case’, hand stamped on each side.
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