Damir Doma’s first Silent collection is due out around the world in the next month. A diffusion line from one of the most exciting designers of the past few years, focussed on basics, that are affordable and complement the Croatian born designers unique and trendsetting aesthetic.
Has fashion always been your passion? What did you want to be as a child?
I grew up in a family of creatives. My mother is a fashion designer and I grew up in her atelier. Fashion is in my blood!
How would you describe your design aesthetic?
I guess I have a quite artistic approach to fashion. When I think of a piece of clothing I imagine it as a sculpture. I love when clothes start to move, when clothes start breathing! For me each piece is 3 dimensional like a sculpture, which people sometimes don’t take in consideration. I check all my pieces from every angle and perspective. I always ask my models to walk with the clothes and move because the movement of an outfit can be a magic and sometimes very majestic moment! At the end of the day I see myself as visionary, an explorer. I also think that my aesthetic is actually quite puristic and sometimes even minimalistic!
Where do you find inspiration for your collections? What comes first, the sketches, the fabrics? Is it important to stick to a few set rules and if so, what are yours?
I have a very clear vision. I create a concept for the collection concerning shape etc and than try bring it to life. My base is always the material, and depending on the material I create certain shapes. One of the most important moments is the first reflection of the last collection! I always try to improve things and develop them further until they reach the level of perfection if possible. Once I built up the core of the collection and the concept pieces etc, I strip them down and structure the whole collection.
In what ways was menswear the logical starting point? Does designing for women offer different challenges or do you approach both with the same mindset?
Starting menswear was just easier at the beginning as I design it for myself! And this is also the biggest difference between men’s and women’s! I first had to create the Damir Doma woman before I could start creating the clothes and I had to think about the character of the DD woman. My woman is proud and strong character and at the same time she has a very fragile and sad side. She is even a bit morbid! I imagine a priestess or a goddess when I design the collection!
How was SILENT born? Is the line’s philosophy different from your main line?
Silent is an extension of my own collection. I see all things I do as a whole! Everything is connected and there is a reason for everything! At a certain point I felt that there is product missing that are more pure and minimalistic. At the same time they needed to be real! I didn’t want to make some kind of crappy second line as most of the other designers do! I wanted to create a new collection that has its own character and philosophy within my world.
To what extent do you believe a designer should take practicality and affordability into consideration when designing a garment?
I see myself as a creator, not just a designer! I believe my strongest point is my vision! I have a philosophy; I don’t just design nice products, which makes the difference. My priority as a creator is to express my artistic vision and build my own universe. I also think that it is very important to be structured and to give structure to the collection. I’m aware that some of my creations are not easy to wear for everybody that’s why I stripe down some pieces until they get more accessible. This is so important to understand otherwise there will be no commercial success and without good sales you can’t survive. Nevertheless the most important thing is the vision and the focus on the creation.
Having stood amongst the crowd outside Garage Turenne I realised just how much the fashion industry and the fashion fans love you; how do you feel about this massive success?
I feel just lucky! I think fashion is about change! People are looking for a new direction. Maybe they are sick of the post Hedi Slimane and Rick Owens era? I’m just proposing something and apparently my vision is strong enough to make people think and rethink the way they are dressing! My work is real and people can easily feel that.
Where do you see yourself in a few years? What is next for SILENT?
Basically I want to create my own universe and show it to many people. I want them to be part of it. Silent is going to be a fantastic collection! I’m collecting ideas for products and by and by we’ll grow silent to a full range collection including wovens, shoes, bags etc!
Interview extracted from Swide.