JW Anderson’s Autumn/Winter 2010 collection represents a scrapbook of thoughts based on the notion of the Saint and the Assassin. A collection full of contradiction – the romanticism of the Irish countryside is juxtaposed with paramilitary references. Likewise, the rebellion of street style mixes with the uniformity of varsity.

‘Faux fabrics’ reinforce the notion of contradiction – cashmere is cut to look like shearling, luxury silks are boiled beyond recognition. Thermals are used throughout the collection and along with Aaron knits and heavy cashmere evoke the countryside of Jonathan’s Northern Irish roots.

Everyday menswear items – such as sweatshirts- are reworked as skirts for men. Roll and crew necks are slashed down the back or sides. Blankets are cut into vests and biker jackets to be worn with matching or contrast trousers.

Bike chains and belts embellished with beads and metal reflect a strong street style aesthetic throughout the collection. The contradictory theme of the collection is at its most obvious within the accessories – L.O.V.E and H.A.T.E rings reiterate a struggle between aggression and romanticism; the word Mizpah – a reference to the emotional bond between two people separated by either physicality or death – is emblazoned on pieces throughout the collection.

Thanks to oki-ni for the images and words.