The latest British designer to find its place on the schedule at Paris Fashion Week was Komakino, who presented their SS13 collection. An interesting theme ran through the presentation – children surrounded by images of war without a cause – but the collection brought in a number of references which, combined, created a varied overall silhoutte. The catalyst for the season was “the way a skater would tuck their t-shirt into their waistband and leave it hang”. Dazed Digital caught up with designer Federico Capalbo to talk about the blurring of dress codes to create something new:
Integrated, folded t-shirts: “We like the idea of mixing streetwear details into something more contructed and tailored. Starting from the way skaters would wear a t-shirt around their waist, we began folding t-shirts in unusual ways and integrating them into patterns, especially at the back of the garments, making interesting lines almost like origami. You create a strong panel this is actually very fluid, done with jersey – a total contrast. They’re incorporated in different ways; upside down or attached through the side seam, specific to every garment. We wanted a feeling of layering in Spring/Summer.
Tailoring in a basketball silhouette: “The basketball short is the most simple in construction but done in tailoring fabric it translates to create a universe you couldn’t imagine in polyester. It’s appealing to see the basketball player silhouette of vest and oversized shorts translated into tailoring with raw edges around the arms, a play on opposites. This was inspired by the recent sportswear collection we created for Opening Ceremony.
Deconstructed protective vests and constrictive straps: “A continuation of our main reference, military wear. We’ve been doing vests for a few seasons, they create very nice layering over a very simple t-shirt or boxy shirt, you can exaggerate volumes with it. I like the idea of something so constrictive over something so relaxed in shape.”
Photography: Dennis Schoenberg