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Komakino Spring/Summer 2013 Collection

The latest British designer to find its place on the schedule at Paris Fashion Week was Komakino, who presented their SS13 collection. An interesting theme ran through the presentation – children surrounded by images of war without a cause – but the collection brought in a number of references which, combined, created a varied overall silhoutte. The catalyst for the season was “the way a skater would tuck their t-shirt into their waistband and leave it hang”. Dazed Digital caught up with designer Federico Capalbo to talk about the blurring of dress codes to create something new:

Integrated, folded t-shirts: “We like the idea of mixing streetwear details into something more contructed and tailored. Starting from the way skaters would wear a t-shirt around their waist, we began folding t-shirts in unusual ways and integrating them into patterns, especially at the back of the garments, making interesting lines almost like origami. You create a strong panel this is actually very fluid, done with jersey – a total contrast. They’re incorporated in different ways; upside down or attached through the side seam, specific to every garment. We wanted a feeling of layering in Spring/Summer.

Tailoring in a basketball silhouette: “The basketball short is the most simple in construction but done in tailoring fabric it translates to create a universe you couldn’t imagine in polyester. It’s appealing to see the basketball player silhouette of vest and oversized shorts translated into tailoring with raw edges around the arms, a play on opposites. This was inspired by the recent sportswear collection we created for Opening Ceremony.

Deconstructed protective vests and constrictive straps: “A continuation of our main reference, military wear. We’ve been doing vests for a few seasons, they create very nice layering over a very simple t-shirt or boxy shirt, you can exaggerate volumes with it. I like the idea of something so constrictive over something so relaxed in shape.”

Photography: Dennis Schoenberg