Founded in 2001, Julius has gained cult status – from its base in Japan – for its use of dramatic and gothic artistic images which are used to inspire architectural collections.
Founder: Tatsuro Horikawa
Location: Tokyo, Japan
Despite the creation of two clothing labels – one of which, Nuke, had gained large following – Tatsuro Horikawa never set out to establish a third label in Julius. As his other two brands had ceased trading, Tatsuro chose to focus more on audio/visual shows for art galleries, taking inspiration from the spiritual and architectural. 2004 however saw the evolution of this phase in Tatsuro’s life, as he launched Julius’ first collection, extending the gothic themes of his artwork into the clothes, focusing largely on using black and other dark tones throughout collections. The brands philosophy states that it takes inspiration from the Zen religion, in that black represents grief, a tie which works well when taking into account the avant-garde world of post apocalypse which Tatsuro engages. It is not only the emotion of the clothes which appears heavy; fabrics also continue this trend, with large amounts of leather layered structurally over the wearer. Tatsuro has stated of his inspiration “I grew up in consciousness of whole generations who saw “Akira” “Blade Runner” and “Mad Max”. Tokyo shaped by Techno and Industrial Music and underground culture which exists right alongside the “normal”, a statement which encapsulates the anarchic undertones of his work. 2006 not only had huge influence over Tatsuro, but also the brand itself. Tatsuro took the ‘illegal’ trip of crossing the border between China and Tibet in order to spend two weeks in a Buddhist monastery, where amongst spiritual teachings, he learned over 200 ways to fold robes. Not only did this introduce the “blood red” colour way into collections, it gave a new dimension and deeper sentiment to a brand which sees itself as “contributing to a person’s total life-style” – giving valid reason for the rugged way in which it views the world. 2008 saw the brand make its debut in Paris, the ideal setting for the avant-garde style which Tatsuro describes as “the tailoring of a vampiric dandy and the draping and simplicity of a monk”. This juxtaposition has gained the brand large following throughout the world however the rise of brands such as Damir Doma have somewhat halted the progress of the Julius as both focus loosely on the same creative inspiration. Perhaps the GOTH_IK fall/winter 2010 collection was however Julius’ way of reversing this trend. For the first time, Tatsuro admitted he sees himself as part of the fashion world, despite not being influenced by trends. This confession has led many to speculate that through collective focus within the brand, it will be more likely to “give people new perspective” from within rather than being an “nuisance neighbour”.